My ‘Slow Travel’ Guide To South Goa
South Goa is a peaceful alternative to the much touristic and crowded North Goa. If you’re someone who enjoys slow travel, local experiences, and seeks lesser-known sights and an intimate rendezvous with nature, my South Goa Travel Guide is for you.
When I decided to travel to Goa during the pandemic, I purposely chose South Goa. It was a trip without a specific agenda. I wanted to savour the slow and quiet life of South Goa. My idea was to extract unique experiences, spontaneous adventures and rare attractions without doing much.
I was conscious about choosing a destination, which was easy to reach, required minimal movement and human contact. I guess I was able to do that.
Besides, I avoided the hotels completely. I stayed at heritage mansions, homestays and AirBnbs to be able to experience the local life and discover the best places to visit in South Goa.
I believe we should make better travel choices, even when we have a vaccination for Coronavirus. Let’s not forget that travel is a privilege. Thereby, let’s be respectful towards the environment, nature, local resources and the communities. Let’s not be ignorant anymore.
It’s time we take responsibility of being good and kind travellers.
My ‘Slow Travel’ Guide To South Goa
Even though it was a long trip, I did not visit North Goa to be able to avoid crowded places. While South Goa is known to be less crowded and peaceful, North Goa also has some reclusive places. You got to choose the right kind of places with a little bit of research.
You can also read my post on offbeat sights and travel experiences in North Goa.
It was a three-week mother-daughter sojourn in the laidback villages of South Goa.
Here’s sharing my personal South Goa itinerary –
Majorda
Majorda is an exceedingly charming village in Salcete, South Goa. I’d say Majorda is a great choice to begin your stay in Goa, as it’s not so far from the airport.
It’s an amazing concoction of the vintage appeal exuded by the Portuguese homes, old churches, art galleries and simple, unimposing, traditional village life of Goa. And, not to forget you also have Majorda beach, which is one of the most serene South Goa beaches.
I’d suggest you should indulge your appetite at Martin’s Corner and Pentagon Restaurant, which are highly recommended for yummy seafood and other non-vegetarian dishes. Visit them during the lean hours when there are fewer people. Pentagon has a lovely outdoor seating with a view of the lush fields.
I spent four days in Majorda at an extremely fascinating Portuguese mansion – Vivenda dos Palhacos.
Colva
Although I did not enjoy staying in Colva much, it is a reasonably beautiful coastal village in Salcete, South Goa. It is quite close to Majorda.
Colva has a highly commercial side to it – crowded beach, lots of shops and vehicles, which is why I did not like it much. However, there’s a quiet and appealing side to Colva, too. There are lush roads, ideal for strolling. There are imposing churches and chapels, cute cafes and bakeries, too.
I stayed in Colva for four days in an Airbnb, which was close to all the necessary shops and barely a kilometre away from Colva beach.
Benaulim
Benaulim is another lovely village in South Goa. It’s just a few kms from Colva. I’d say Benaulim is one of the best places, which are not on tourists’ radar. Therefore, it’s peaceful, non-commercial and inspires you to indulge in slow travel and stay longer in Goa.
South Goa Homestays
I stayed at Simply Homestay owned and run by Nicole, Charlie and their wonderful children, Ethan and Emma.
Apparently, there are not many homestays in Goa. However, I found my kind of a place to stay in South Goa with quite an ease. Simply Homestay is located in Cana Benaulim, which is 3km from Sernabatim Beach.
My fondest memories of South Goa are from Benaulim. I stayed at Nicole’s homestay for six days. And, it was a time well spent in the midst of serenity and verdure. I have to mention that my room and the stay turned out to be even better than what I had expected earlier when I had seen a few pictures of the homestay online.
The homestay is beautiful. It is so full of love. It is your haven of peace and comfort.
Since I had stayed at so many homestays in India, especially in the mountains, I was aware of certain things that I’d experience at Simply Homestay. However, I need to mention that Nicole seasons her comradely hospitality with a lot of ‘extras’, which is rare to find.
Nicole and Charlie help you connect with nature in a more meaningful way. I’ve given it a new term – ‘green hospitality’. The homestay has a wide variety of trees and plants that fulfil all your kitchen needs. As you sit and enjoy a meal under a tree, with a view of the rice paddies, Nicole and Charlie join you for conversations.
It’s always more rewarding to stay with a local family, as they give you insights about their traditions and beliefs, and make you connect with the place in a more authentic way. I could discover things like how rice is steamed traditionally at Goan homes, Feni making, fish drying, and the much-loved baking culture of Goa.
You can give Charlie’s GoaGreen a chance for offbeat South Goa tour packages. They create bespoke experiences of Goa for discerning travellers.
My most favourite part about staying at Simply Homestay was the beautiful breakfasts! I really, really appreciate Nicole for being so precise and particular about what I liked and disliked in terms of food. It was so generous of her to prepare breakfasts (and other meals) keeping in mind that I wanted to have only healthy stuff.
She was so accommodative towards my mom as well. Even my mom, who’s extremely particular about her food, felt at home.
Simply Homestay is one of the best places to stay in South Goa, if you’re not looking for luxuries and frills. You can check out their amenities and rates on the homestay’s website.
Margao
Thanks to Nicole, I got to explore a bit of Margao aka Madgaon, the commercial as well as the cultural capital of South Goa. It was an unexpected bonus to my South Goa trip.
I had planned to sleep in the afternoon, and I get a message from Nicole, “I’m going to Margao. Would you like to join?” Well, the invitation was too good to decline. I get ready in a jiffy.
Margao is your alternative to Panjim’s Fontainhas, which is in North Goa. Nicole drove us to a viewpoint, which was from a church. It was a great place to enjoy some panoramic views. However, the sunlight was not appropriate. So, we came to Holy Spirit Church, a 15th century historic church, which has a lot of beguiling heritage around it – the rundown old mansions.
The significant old buildings of Margao to visit: Margao Municipal Council, Sat Bhurzam Ghor, and the Latin Quarters (Abade Faria Road).
Sadly, the heritage of Margao comes with a black history. On September 21 of 1890, 23 Goans were massacred by the Portuguese rulers.
As stated in Herald Goa: The municipal elections were scheduled on that day and there were allegations that the elections were rigged and people were denied their right to vote and as the murmurings increased, the Portuguese administrator directed his force to fire on the around 4,000 people gathered near Holy Spirit Church.
While 17 people died on the spot including a woman who was leaving the church and a young boy who was playing at his house garden wall. Ultimately 23 people died in the firing that lasted for 20 minutes.
The bullet marks can be seen even today at the house of Dr Slavador Alvares who has framed the marks with circular bass plaques.
Curtorim
If you want to completely drift from the Goa of sun, sand and beaches, sojourn in Curtorim (a village in Salcete) for a few days. The river Zuari flows along the village giving it a dreamlike character.
Curtorim is steeped in verdure. It’s just not about churches, chapels and old Portuguese homes. Curtorim has an abundance of beautiful paddy fields, water bodies, and a huge variety of birds. Thereby, it’s a totally different aspect of Goa.
There are plenty of nature as well as heritage trails in Curtorim. It’s really up to your curiosity and the spirit to wander.
I stayed in Curtorim for three days at Arco Iris Boutique Homestay.
Cavelossim
Cavelossim is a perfect ‘workation’ in Goa. Fortunately, I found a beautiful Airbnb in Cavelossim, which offered me free WiFi, Netflix, a well-equipped kitchen, washing machine (much-needed for long stays) and a portico facing the lush garden of the property.
There were shops close to the house for all the daily essentials. I’d say Cavelossim is ideal for slow travel or a long-term travel in Goa.
Besides the Airbnb, you can also find quite a few popular hotels in Cavelossim – Radisson Blu Resort Goa, The Leela Goa Luxury Beach and Riverside Resort, and Novotel Goa Dona Sylvia Resort.
But if you’re someone like me who prefers to stay away from the touristic crowd, especially in times of Coronavirus, you should opt for a secluded accommodation in South Goa.
I loved Cavelossim particularly because of the deserted farms and fields and the distant blue mountains that I got to see while driving or walking. Not to forget there are some of the calmest beaches in Cavelossim.
I stayed in Cavelossim for four days, and it was the last leg of my trip.
Carmona
Carmona is another beautiful village in the Salcette district of South Goa. It’s barely 4 kms from Cavelossim.
I discovered Carmona, as I visited Carmona beach, which I thought was one of the best beaches in Goa – it was serene and deserted. And, I witnessed an exceedingly gorgeous sunset from the beach.
However, I have a word of caution for you – make sure you have your own vehicle with you whenever you visit these isolated beaches. You might not get a cab and it’s not fun to walk after sunset through the lonely streets.
Top experiences & activities of my South Goa trip
- Elaborate breakfasts in old, heritage balconies or under a tree.
- Long walks through Goan villages.
- Visited lesser-known Goa beaches.
- Explored the cafes and bakeries of South Goa.
- Visited homes that make Feni, the local beverage of Goa.
- Watched many beautiful sunrises and sunsets.
- Relished a variety of fish at Goan homes.
- Enjoyed panoramic views from hilltops.
- Conversations with the locals.
- Walked by rivers and lakes.
- Savoured doing nothing.
Where To Stay In South Goa
South Goa has plenty of accommodation options for all kinds of budgets. You can either choose one of the heritage hotels in South Goa, such as Vivenda dos Palhacos, Arco Iris Boutique Homestay, or a comfy Airbnb for a budget stay.
Goa has many tastefully made hotels to give you that unforgettable experience.
Check hotel prices on Booking.com
Booking.com
Goa Travel Tips & Tricks
The worst part about your Goa trip could be the local taxis that you hire for commuting. Wouldn’t you agree? You could perhaps save some money when it comes to your accommodation, but the taxis in Goa do make a hole in your pocket.
Well, I found a cheaper alternative on my last trip in Goa –
- Use Goa Miles App while you’re in Goa. Since there’s no Ola or Uber in Goa, the local taxi drivers exploit tourists. Say a big NO to them, and download Goa Miles app on your phone for much cheaper local cabs.
- If you’d like to drive, rent a car for the entire trip.
Is it safe to travel to Goa now?
Well, in the wake of COVID, it’s not safe to travel anywhere at the moment. However, you can be safe in Goa with proper precautions, such as staying away from crowded places, wearing your mask in public places and sanitizing your hands regularly.
Read my posts on Pandemic Travel:
Post Lockdown Travel – How To Be Safe?
Is Air Travel Safe During COVID?
South Goa Trip Budget
The budget of your trip depends upon many things, such as the length of your trip, the season, the choices you make in terms of accommodation, food and transport.
You can follow some of my budget travel tips for your Goa trip –
- Choose all-inclusive homestays for your stay. Stay longer and ask for discount.
- Stay in Airbnb homes of Goa – the benefit is that you can cook your own meals and save money, which you would otherwise spend on restaurants.
- Stay at hotels that offer activities and sights at walkable distances. Avoid spending on local taxis.
- Make sure the first hotel that you check in as you land in Goa and the last hotel before you leave are close to the airport. You can save on kms and save on fuel.
- Look for good hotel deals on websites like Booking.com and Agoda. They are my favourites, as you get real good deals and also flexibility to cancel later without a charge.
Disclaimer: This post has affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!
Is slow travel in South Goa on your agenda?
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